Day 7 Transitioning to Orkney Island

A two-hour drive from Inverness to Scrabster for an hour and a half ferry ride to Orkney Island at the northern tip of Scotland  There is no tradition of kilts, clans or bagpipes here.  It has been a trading post primarily of the Norwegian realm throughout the centuries and has a decidedly Scandinavian feel to it.  Although green like Scotland, it is flat with farmland, grazing cows and sheep and only a few trees.

100% of Orkney Island's electricity is provided by windmills

Other than the isolation from civilization, people come to Orkney for two reasons.  First, the prehistoric ruins.  More people lived here 5,000 years ago than live here now.  Ruins to support that.  

And World Wars I and II.  An incredible loss of life due to ship sinkings in the nearby harbors.

Today we got a lay of the land, checked into our Airbnb, (a 200-year-old converted cow shed), and visited the Broch of Gurness.  A 2,000-year-old Iron Age settlement, a noted icon of Orkney’s rich heritage.

Day 6 Locks between Lochs and the Loch Ness Monster seen and photographed

My byline for this post was going to be: "What is more likely, seeing the Loch Ness Monster or winning the Powerball lottery........twice.  My answer has changed, you will have to read all of today's blog for the reason.

Today we circumnavigated the Loch Ness, or Lake Ness.  It is the largest and deepest of all the lakes of Scotland, indeed, its volume is greater than all the lakes in England and Scotland.  Lake Tahoe, eat your heart out.

We also discovered the Caledonian Canal.  This is a 60 mile long series of locks that connect other loch's with the Loch Ness.  Completed in 1820, it was the technological wonder of the world.  In looking at it initially, we weren't sure if it still remained as a tourist attraction or what.  Made of stone, no concrete with the turnstiles needed to crank the gates open by hand.  Then in came a couple of sailboats and the locks were drained and filled as needed.  Not by hand now, but other than a spruce up in 1980's, it works the same today as it did almost 200 years ago.

Now, we turned out attention to the Loch Ness and a possible Nessie sighting.  Depending on who you read, a monster has been sighted either never, or thousands of times.  The first hint of a sighting comes from around 400 BC.  Right.  Most sightings have been debunked, but not all.  There are two visitor's centers on the loch.  Both, for an entrance fee, indicate there is a fairly average possibility that their might be something out there.  Maybe.  Now, thanks for your entrance fee and carry on.  I even found this coffee mug in a gift shop.

But, on our final stop on our way back to Inverness for dinner, we did stop at the only beach on Loch Ness.  First, as we arrived at the beach, we saw two "objects" coming toward us.  It this Nessie and her baby??  No it was two swimmers, one with an inflated 'dry-bag' on this back. (kinda looked like a monster).  He drags himself out of the water, takes his dry-bag off and comes up to me with it open.  He wanted me to take out his mobile phone and check the miles swam; 1.8.  He and his wife were pleased.

As we were walking down the beach, we spied something odd a hundred yards ahead.  As we approached, there was police tape surrounding it and a guard, below are the photos we took.

Now, we have three possible explanations here.  1) it is April 1st, no, it is June 28. 2) this is the actually carcass of Nessie, although there is no smell and why are the small intestines in the thoracic area?, or 3) they are filming a new Loch Ness Monster movie.

Our conclusion is #3.  In town we spied this:

Movie trucks.  Damn.

Day 5 Strathisla Distillary and Culloden Battlefield

First a Brexit update.  The Scots are not happy.  As I may have mentioned before, they haven't been too crazy about the British for several hundred years already, this isn't helping.  The newspaper stand at the local market it below.  On the other hand, the British Pound is dropping like a rock.  Our dinners are cheaper.

As we head north into the Central Highlands, (think Gallic and kilts), we enter the Scotch Whisky Trail.  Sorta like the Napa Valley but with a designated driver.

It was recommended that we visit the Strathisla Distillery.  It is the oldest continuously operating distillery in Scotland.  It was built in response to the waning 'flax dressing industry' in the late 1700's.  You ask, "what is the 'flax dressing industry'?"  The making of linen.  (Not sure how they got from Point A to Point B).  Strathisla's went through a series of owners and fires and eventually Chivas Bros.bought them in 1950.  And the rest, they say, is history.

Quite a process to make scotch whisky.  We had a great tour of the facility, looking at all the malting, mashing, fermentation, distilling and maturation.  We learned the difference between blended and single malts.  For people who don't drink, we know a lot more about whiskey then people who do drink.

At the end, I had the opportunity to compare the different whiskeys.  From simple to complex, (they told me).  Very educational.

In the afternoon we visited the Culloden Battlefield.  This battle took place on April 16, 1746 between the British Red Coats and the Highland Clans.  It was explained to us as the "Scottish Alamo".  15,000 men battled for one hour, with 1,500-2,000 of the clansmen (Jacobites) killed or wounded, but only around 300 British killed or wounded.  The Brit's first victory after many losses to the Jacobites, but it was such an overwhelming loss, that the Jacobite leader and figure-head, Bonnie Prince Charlie, abandoned the fight and fled to France.

A cold dreary day to view the battlefield.  A line of 3 red flags denoting the British skirmish line, and a line of blue
 flags noting where the Jacobites started their march to the British.  The slaughter of the Jacobites was very
 close to the red skirmish line.

After this resounding victory, the Brits came down hard on the clansmen.  Killing many, pillaging the towns, outlawing Gallic, and the wearing of kilts.  Anything Scottish.  As I mentioned before, the Scots haven't forgotten.  Indeed, a lot was going on in Europe during, before, and after our American Revolution.

Day 4 RSS Discovery and the Glamis Castle

First, a weather report.  It has been great!  Looking at the weather online before we left home, rain was predicted every day.  The good news is that it has sprinkled or briefly rained every afternoon but mostly sunny otherwise.......So far.  The bad news is, we are told over and over that this type of weather is very unusual, it is normally very rainy all the time.  So we'll see.

Our first stop today was the RRS Discovery.  It was the last traditional wooden three-masted ship to be built in Britain.  And, designed soled for Antarctic research.  It was launched as a Royal Research Ship (RRS) in 1901.  Its first mission was the British National Antarctic Expedition, carrying Robert Falcon Scott and Ernest Shackleton on their first, successful journey to the Antarctic.  It is now the centerpiece of a visitor attraction in Dundee.

Although not as meticulously maintained and curated as the Britannia that we boarded yesterday; it was a working ship that, for its time in history, would be similar to the Apollo program in a modern age.  They did hard research for three years in the Antarctic, with many dangers, perils, victories and discoveries.

Part of the lab on board.  Geology, meteorology, botany, zoology.  They even

put up a hot air balloon to do some aerial research

This was the galley.  Note the cat in the far corner, she made it all the

way to the South Pole.  (Their mascot dog, was dropped off at

Cape Town, South Africa)

This was where the illustrator did his plant and animal drawings.  They had

still and moving pictures, but this was the only way they could capture colors.

Our next stop was the Glamis Castle, (pronounced Glamz).  A "starter castle' was built in 1376, and as they say, the rest is history.  Currently the Earl and Countess of Strathmore live there, but it's claim to fame is it was the favorite castle for the Queen Mum, (Queen Elizabeth 1900-2002).  She was actually born here, grew up here, and spent much of her later years here.

Unfortunately, no photos inside, but we were led by a docent through probably 1% of the castle.  There was so much history to hear and see, we didn't need to check out the rest of the castle.  A bit of trivia; old and new.  Next to the billiard room was a small room, small door, small chair.  We were told this is where the men went after dinner and before billiards to have their make up reapplied and their powered wigs shaken to dislodge as many bugs as possible.

The modern bit of trivia, in the family chapel the docent showed us a small framed silver/chrome cross.  This was created and given to the castle by a former International Space Station astronaut who, while visiting the Glamis Castle, fell in love with another tourist and got married in the chapel.  He "took part of the space station" to fashion this cross to donate to the castle.  Our guide attended the wedding and stated "there were lots of astronauts here"!

Great gardens surrounded the castle

Day 3 From the Royal Mile to the Royal Yacht to the Royal Golf Course

Yesterday was Edinburgh and its famous Royal Mile.  Today we visited the Royal Yacht, the HMY Britannia, and the 'royal-ist' of all golf courses, the 600 year old St. Andrews Old Course. 

Her Majesty's yacht Britannia is the former royal yacht of the British Monarch, Queen Elizabeth II, in service from 1954 to 1997.  She was the 83rd vessel since King Charles II acceded to the throne in 1660.  During her 43 year career, the yacht traveled more than a million nautical miles around the globe which is equivalent to circumnavigating the earth every year.

Today, she is museum ship and events venue permanently berthed at Ocean Terminal, Leith in Edinburgh, and is visited by more than 300,000 tourists each year.  A great tour of a formerly great vessel, who's time has come and gone in the modern world.

The Royal parlor.  Although  The Britannia sailed until 1997 with a crew of almost 250,
the furnishing and feel of the Royal Yacht are distinctly the 1950's.

The engine room was as clean and polished as the rest of the ship.

The Royal dining room.  The likes of Reagan, Clinton, Gandhi, and Yeltsin, plus, of course all the Royal Family

The afternoon was spent at St. Andrews.  The Old Course at St. Andrews is considered by many to be the "home of golf"  because the sport was first played on the Links at St. Andrews in the early 15th century. Golf was becoming increasingly popular in Scotland until in 1457, when James II of Scotland banned golf because he felt that young men were playing too much golf instead of practicing their archery.  The ban was upheld by the following kings of Scotland until 1502 when King James IV became a golfer himself and removed the ban.

It is on the "bucket list" of any golfer who is more serious about his game then he is about his money.  Although not on any of our bucket lists we have now played St. Andrews and it cost us a British Pound each. (senior rate).

This is the iconic shot of the 18th hole.

A foursome playing on the fairway next to us.

Tom posing on the world-famous 700 year old bridge on the 18th hole.  I did not feel worthy.

Gloria "setting up a putt" close to the 18th hole.

Action shot of me, I just pulled the trigger on this putt.

Relaxing after our 18 holes of golf at St. Andrews

Now, the rest of the story........You will notice we were not in our golfing attire. Baggy jeans, long sleave shirts or coats and no golf shoes.  St. Andrews boasts 7-18 hole championship golf courses, and an 8th.  The Himalaya Course.   We played the Himalaya.  It is an 18 hole putting green!  Himalayan because there are lots of ups and downs between the holes.  Sorta like miniature golf  without the windmills and concrete sides.  We played St. Andrews...............sorta!
                         

Day 2 Edinburgh

Got to bed around midnight last night.  Hard to turn in much earlier since it is light until 10:30!  Today we hit Edinburgh hard.  Briefly, (since I have quite a few pictures) the historic district is called the Royal Mile.  

It starts at Edinburgh Castle and ends at the Palace of Hollyrood-House.  The history spans from the 12th century when the Castle's construction began through the Reformation and John Knox's house all the way to J. K. Rowling and her inspiration for the Harry Potter series.

We caught the daily 1pm cannon shot from Edinburgh Castle.  It has been fired daily since 1861.
It was used to keep the ships in the harbor informed of the correct time.

As you may know, Great Britain voted  to leave the European Union yesterday.   Scotland is not happy,
this is a demonstration reflecting their frustration, again, with England.

A great street artist.  "Suspended" in the air above his "walking stick".  Yes, he
released his hand periodically from the stick.  Ideas?

Day 1 Transit to Edinburgh

First, thanks for taking a few minutes to read my meandering travel thoughts.  The following photos and comments help me remember and relive fun times.  You can peek in if you want.

Fairly routine travel from Twain Harte to Scotland, except the SFO to London leg was on British Airways Airbus a380.  First time for us to fly this double-decker.  We, and 467 other people experienced the quietest flight ever.  25% of the plane is carbon fiber and BA brags it is 50% quieter, and 50% bigger than the 747-800.

We were way toward the back, second floor.  Our "walk of shame" through business class was tolerable, fortunately, we were not exposed to the first class bedrooms, showers and bars.  You can check those out online if you want to feel bad.  As I mentioned, the quietest flight ever.  And the most amazing descent and landing ever. A big feather.  I'm still amazed.

Anyway, a lengthy stay in Heathrow before our connector flight to Edinburgh.  Heathrow was a madhouse; all flights were delayed into and out of the airport.  After boarding our plane more than two hours late, our captain told us we would wait another 45 minutes before we pushed off.  His explanation was either "lightning strikes in France", disrupting all air traffic in Europe, or "airport strikes" in France, disrupting all air traffic in Europe.   Both would be likely causes.......

You can see us waving, second level, toward the back.

Finally, our arrival in Edinburgh.  Tom and Kathy our yearly, summer travel companions, had flown in earlier in the day, picked us up at the airport and with the help of Siri we navigated our way to the first of many Airbnbs.  Tomorrow, we tour Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland for 700 years and inhabited for over 10,000 years.